Phnom Penh, Cambodia: Better Luck Next Time (November 2013)

You don’t have to fall in love with everywhere you visit. Phnom Penh was my least favorite place on our journey through Southeast Asia. It takes a lot for me to feel truly uncomfortable, but the minute we got to Phnom Penh, I knew it wasn’t going to be my cup of tea. Five minutes after getting into a tuk tuk from the bus station, we see a female tourist get thrown into the street by a speeding motorbiker trying to rip her backpack off. Our tuk tuk driver turns around to us and said “did you see that?! must be very careful!” Not the best first impression of Cambodia’s capitol city.

We arrived at our hostel, which turned out to be the best part of our time there. Eighty8 Hostel has a great open area bar/lounge area and a pool. We spent the first day trying to decide what sights to see around town. Our options included killing fields, prisons and launching grenades with the Cambodian military. With a variety of uplifting activities to choose from, we decided to only tour the killing fields.

I admit that I was not fully aware of the recent political situation before visiting Cambodia. I was behind in my research and I regret not taking more time to look into the reasoning and outcome of the Khmer Rouge regime. Sometimes I prefer to not know much before learning about a situation first hand, but in this case I just felt confused and uneducated. The killing fields were eerie, yet empty. You’re provided with headphones and a recorded tour of the open areas. The stories are heartfelt, but I lacked a connection with the fields. I still can’t figure out why.

I heard the stories, saw the fields and yet there was a personal aspect missing to the tour and the memorial. I think it has to do with the attitude of the locals who are selling tuk tuk rides to the fields. They ask you as if they’re asking if you need a ride to the airport. This monument feels simply like a tourist attraction. I guess I’m glad I went, but I don’t have a desire to go back. I understand that the tuk tuk drivers and tourist desks are pushing the fields so they get paid to take you there, but it was something else. Something was off, and I guess at least visiting the fields have encouraged me to educate myself on Cambodia’s recent history.

Phnom Penh is a strange place. Part of me wants to give it a second chance. Possibly after more research and understanding I’ll be able to return to Phnom Penh with a different approach.