Kep to Siem Reap (November 2013)

I’ve been wanting to do a trip like this for quite some time, but of course there’s always something in the way whether it’s a job, relationship, money or even just lack motivation. When I started exploring the idea of taking a pause on the job hunting, I did some research to see if a trip to Southeast Asia was really plausible on my budget for that amount of time. As I was searching, I came across a travel blog written by a girl who was around my age and in a similar situation. She quit her job to travel. No other motive, not running from or search for something, just to travel. She ended up becoming a successful travel writer and her blog is still thriving today. I was inspired by her drive to follow her passions and take the risk so many are afraid to explore.

We’ve established from previous posts that Kep is a very small town. Not many tourists. We get on a bus in Kep headed for Siem Reap, making a stop in Kampot and Phnom Penh. Kampot is a slightly bigger town than Kep, but not much. It has a strong French architectural influence and the main attraction is touring pepper fields, which we’re hoping to explore more next trip. At our stop in Kampot four more passengers got on the bus, 2 young Canadian guys and a couple. The girl looked very familiar, but I figured it was just someone we had seen in passing along our journey, as you tend to run into a lot of people along the beaten path. But no, we hadn’t seen this girl along our journey, then it hit me… IT’S HER! The blogger whose writing gave me the final push to focus on traveling! I couldn’t believe it. She hadn’t traveled to Southeast Asia since her big trip 3 years ago and here she is on OUR tiny bus.

The actual ride was a bit brutal. We were expecting to be on a much larger, more comfortable bus for the 8 hour journey, but instead we were packed into a van. There was one stop along the way to eat and use the toilets and another stop that involved a mysterious burlap bag filled with god knows what. But we survived and arrived safely in Siem Reap, which turned out to be a pleasantly surprising city.

Any doubts along the way as to whether or not a trip is a good idea are completely validated when you taste an unbelievably delicious meal made in a makeshift kitchen, lounge peacefully on a deserted beach, meet new friends from all over the world and serendipitous moments like this. You know you’re in the right place… you’re where you’re suppose to be at that exact moment.

Rabbit Island, Cambodia: Island Time (November 2013)

One of the things Kep has to offer is easy access to Rabbit Island, which is about 30 minutes by fishing boat. The island is very small, and the only area that’s accessible is a small beach with some bungalows and a few cafe type establishments. If you’re in the mood for a camp-like experience, Rabbit is the perfect place to spend the day relaxing on the beach, swimming in the warm sea and sleeping in a rustic bungalow. We weren’t sure if we wanted to spend the night so we prepared for both, bringing our daypacks just in case we were feeling adventurous. We spent the day doing exactly what you’re suppose to on Rabbit Island, sipping juices and beers while reading in a hammock on a peaceful beach.

We decided not to stay the night in order to catch the early bus the next morning for the long ride to Siem Reap. Next time I would love to stay the night on the island, but like many events this trip, there just wasn’t time. Although I find it hard to believe at times, everything happens for a reason. Taking that early morning bus to Siem Reap sat me next to someone who helped to inspire my whole trip, and it’s moments like that when you realize you are exactly where you’re suppose to be.

Kep, Cambodia: Pre-Resort Paradise (November 2013)

Thanks to great recommendations by friends, our next stop was the small beach town of Kep located about 3 hours south of Phnom Penh. This town is tiny, doesn't even have an ATM, but the one very important thing it does have is a very respectable seafood market and restaurants. Baskets of crabs are brought up from the water right next to the market where they’re boiled, grilled or fried to perfection, then gobbled up by tourists and locals alike. Grills are lined up, covered with a variety of delicious seafood. We had lunch, and then a snack and then another snack before we made our way back to our bungalow... and then back to the market for dinner.

One thing in Kep that was hard to ignore was the amount of construction. Roads and buildings were being worked on around the clock. White sand was brought in to cover the main beach. The French lady who owned our hotel informed us that Kep is in the works to become the next hot spot for resort seekers, with hope to draw crowds in the near future who are looking for an inexpensive, relaxing seaside vacation. I can definitely see how Kep would be perfect for this sweet spot, although they’ll probably need to look into getting a few ATMs in town. It was exciting to see Kep in its original state, where there are monkeys rummaging through the trash and kids playing in the water without crowds of tourists. 10 years from now we’ll be those annoying people who return to Kep and say “I remember back when there weren’t ATMs here and you had to fish for your own food in order to survive!” Ok, maybe not that roughing it, but I am excited to see what’s next for the sleepy beach town.

Our last night in Kep was spent at a new hostel owned by a French family. We enjoyed the pool and a beautiful sunset before heading back to the seafood market for one final feast at our new favorite market. I really hope that good people are behind the development of Kep. I would hate to see it become overpopulated like parts of Thailand. It’s a special place with positive potential. If you find yourself in that part of the world, I recommend checking out Kep and other coastal towns in Cambodia. Well worth the extra bus ride south from the major cities… and then you can also say “I remember when this was a different kind of paradise.”

Phnom Penh, Cambodia: Better Luck Next Time (November 2013)

You don’t have to fall in love with everywhere you visit. Phnom Penh was my least favorite place on our journey through Southeast Asia. It takes a lot for me to feel truly uncomfortable, but the minute we got to Phnom Penh, I knew it wasn’t going to be my cup of tea. Five minutes after getting into a tuk tuk from the bus station, we see a female tourist get thrown into the street by a speeding motorbiker trying to rip her backpack off. Our tuk tuk driver turns around to us and said “did you see that?! must be very careful!” Not the best first impression of Cambodia’s capitol city.

We arrived at our hostel, which turned out to be the best part of our time there. Eighty8 Hostel has a great open area bar/lounge area and a pool. We spent the first day trying to decide what sights to see around town. Our options included killing fields, prisons and launching grenades with the Cambodian military. With a variety of uplifting activities to choose from, we decided to only tour the killing fields.

I admit that I was not fully aware of the recent political situation before visiting Cambodia. I was behind in my research and I regret not taking more time to look into the reasoning and outcome of the Khmer Rouge regime. Sometimes I prefer to not know much before learning about a situation first hand, but in this case I just felt confused and uneducated. The killing fields were eerie, yet empty. You’re provided with headphones and a recorded tour of the open areas. The stories are heartfelt, but I lacked a connection with the fields. I still can’t figure out why.

I heard the stories, saw the fields and yet there was a personal aspect missing to the tour and the memorial. I think it has to do with the attitude of the locals who are selling tuk tuk rides to the fields. They ask you as if they’re asking if you need a ride to the airport. This monument feels simply like a tourist attraction. I guess I’m glad I went, but I don’t have a desire to go back. I understand that the tuk tuk drivers and tourist desks are pushing the fields so they get paid to take you there, but it was something else. Something was off, and I guess at least visiting the fields have encouraged me to educate myself on Cambodia’s recent history.

Phnom Penh is a strange place. Part of me wants to give it a second chance. Possibly after more research and understanding I’ll be able to return to Phnom Penh with a different approach.