Kep to Siem Reap (November 2013)

I’ve been wanting to do a trip like this for quite some time, but of course there’s always something in the way whether it’s a job, relationship, money or even just lack motivation. When I started exploring the idea of taking a pause on the job hunting, I did some research to see if a trip to Southeast Asia was really plausible on my budget for that amount of time. As I was searching, I came across a travel blog written by a girl who was around my age and in a similar situation. She quit her job to travel. No other motive, not running from or search for something, just to travel. She ended up becoming a successful travel writer and her blog is still thriving today. I was inspired by her drive to follow her passions and take the risk so many are afraid to explore.

We’ve established from previous posts that Kep is a very small town. Not many tourists. We get on a bus in Kep headed for Siem Reap, making a stop in Kampot and Phnom Penh. Kampot is a slightly bigger town than Kep, but not much. It has a strong French architectural influence and the main attraction is touring pepper fields, which we’re hoping to explore more next trip. At our stop in Kampot four more passengers got on the bus, 2 young Canadian guys and a couple. The girl looked very familiar, but I figured it was just someone we had seen in passing along our journey, as you tend to run into a lot of people along the beaten path. But no, we hadn’t seen this girl along our journey, then it hit me… IT’S HER! The blogger whose writing gave me the final push to focus on traveling! I couldn’t believe it. She hadn’t traveled to Southeast Asia since her big trip 3 years ago and here she is on OUR tiny bus.

The actual ride was a bit brutal. We were expecting to be on a much larger, more comfortable bus for the 8 hour journey, but instead we were packed into a van. There was one stop along the way to eat and use the toilets and another stop that involved a mysterious burlap bag filled with god knows what. But we survived and arrived safely in Siem Reap, which turned out to be a pleasantly surprising city.

Any doubts along the way as to whether or not a trip is a good idea are completely validated when you taste an unbelievably delicious meal made in a makeshift kitchen, lounge peacefully on a deserted beach, meet new friends from all over the world and serendipitous moments like this. You know you’re in the right place… you’re where you’re suppose to be at that exact moment.

Rabbit Island, Cambodia: Island Time (November 2013)

One of the things Kep has to offer is easy access to Rabbit Island, which is about 30 minutes by fishing boat. The island is very small, and the only area that’s accessible is a small beach with some bungalows and a few cafe type establishments. If you’re in the mood for a camp-like experience, Rabbit is the perfect place to spend the day relaxing on the beach, swimming in the warm sea and sleeping in a rustic bungalow. We weren’t sure if we wanted to spend the night so we prepared for both, bringing our daypacks just in case we were feeling adventurous. We spent the day doing exactly what you’re suppose to on Rabbit Island, sipping juices and beers while reading in a hammock on a peaceful beach.

We decided not to stay the night in order to catch the early bus the next morning for the long ride to Siem Reap. Next time I would love to stay the night on the island, but like many events this trip, there just wasn’t time. Although I find it hard to believe at times, everything happens for a reason. Taking that early morning bus to Siem Reap sat me next to someone who helped to inspire my whole trip, and it’s moments like that when you realize you are exactly where you’re suppose to be.

Kep, Cambodia: Pre-Resort Paradise (November 2013)

Thanks to great recommendations by friends, our next stop was the small beach town of Kep located about 3 hours south of Phnom Penh. This town is tiny, doesn't even have an ATM, but the one very important thing it does have is a very respectable seafood market and restaurants. Baskets of crabs are brought up from the water right next to the market where they’re boiled, grilled or fried to perfection, then gobbled up by tourists and locals alike. Grills are lined up, covered with a variety of delicious seafood. We had lunch, and then a snack and then another snack before we made our way back to our bungalow... and then back to the market for dinner.

One thing in Kep that was hard to ignore was the amount of construction. Roads and buildings were being worked on around the clock. White sand was brought in to cover the main beach. The French lady who owned our hotel informed us that Kep is in the works to become the next hot spot for resort seekers, with hope to draw crowds in the near future who are looking for an inexpensive, relaxing seaside vacation. I can definitely see how Kep would be perfect for this sweet spot, although they’ll probably need to look into getting a few ATMs in town. It was exciting to see Kep in its original state, where there are monkeys rummaging through the trash and kids playing in the water without crowds of tourists. 10 years from now we’ll be those annoying people who return to Kep and say “I remember back when there weren’t ATMs here and you had to fish for your own food in order to survive!” Ok, maybe not that roughing it, but I am excited to see what’s next for the sleepy beach town.

Our last night in Kep was spent at a new hostel owned by a French family. We enjoyed the pool and a beautiful sunset before heading back to the seafood market for one final feast at our new favorite market. I really hope that good people are behind the development of Kep. I would hate to see it become overpopulated like parts of Thailand. It’s a special place with positive potential. If you find yourself in that part of the world, I recommend checking out Kep and other coastal towns in Cambodia. Well worth the extra bus ride south from the major cities… and then you can also say “I remember when this was a different kind of paradise.”

Phnom Penh, Cambodia: Better Luck Next Time (November 2013)

You don’t have to fall in love with everywhere you visit. Phnom Penh was my least favorite place on our journey through Southeast Asia. It takes a lot for me to feel truly uncomfortable, but the minute we got to Phnom Penh, I knew it wasn’t going to be my cup of tea. Five minutes after getting into a tuk tuk from the bus station, we see a female tourist get thrown into the street by a speeding motorbiker trying to rip her backpack off. Our tuk tuk driver turns around to us and said “did you see that?! must be very careful!” Not the best first impression of Cambodia’s capitol city.

We arrived at our hostel, which turned out to be the best part of our time there. Eighty8 Hostel has a great open area bar/lounge area and a pool. We spent the first day trying to decide what sights to see around town. Our options included killing fields, prisons and launching grenades with the Cambodian military. With a variety of uplifting activities to choose from, we decided to only tour the killing fields.

I admit that I was not fully aware of the recent political situation before visiting Cambodia. I was behind in my research and I regret not taking more time to look into the reasoning and outcome of the Khmer Rouge regime. Sometimes I prefer to not know much before learning about a situation first hand, but in this case I just felt confused and uneducated. The killing fields were eerie, yet empty. You’re provided with headphones and a recorded tour of the open areas. The stories are heartfelt, but I lacked a connection with the fields. I still can’t figure out why.

I heard the stories, saw the fields and yet there was a personal aspect missing to the tour and the memorial. I think it has to do with the attitude of the locals who are selling tuk tuk rides to the fields. They ask you as if they’re asking if you need a ride to the airport. This monument feels simply like a tourist attraction. I guess I’m glad I went, but I don’t have a desire to go back. I understand that the tuk tuk drivers and tourist desks are pushing the fields so they get paid to take you there, but it was something else. Something was off, and I guess at least visiting the fields have encouraged me to educate myself on Cambodia’s recent history.

Phnom Penh is a strange place. Part of me wants to give it a second chance. Possibly after more research and understanding I’ll be able to return to Phnom Penh with a different approach.

Saigon to Cambodia (November 2013)

Every trip to Southeast Asia consists of at least two things: delicious, yet questionable food and epic bus trips. The cheapest and easiest way to get around Southeast Asia is via bus, whether you like it or not. The bus ride from Saigon to Phnom Penh, Cambodia takes about 6 hours and includes a border crossing, ferry ride and sometimes a very impressive tire change.

Since we flew to and from Hanoi due to a time crunch, this was the first big bus journey of our trip. Not sure what to expect, we booked a ticket at the bus station with a couple hours to grab one last bowl of pho and do a little more shopping. The bus was nicer than expect. It wasn’t crowded so we each got our own row and plenty of breathing room. The ride to the Cambodian border was quick and painless. Only problem, no one explained to us what happens at the border. Our passports were taken, we were vaguely motioned in various directions, but managed to get through the Vietnam exit and through Cambodian customs without any major complications. Visa in hand, we made a quick stop of “dinner”. We’re pretty acclimated to eating unusual foods at this point, but this particular place drew us to the pringles and oreos (universal travel snacks) section of the market. Back on the bus for about 30 seconds, we’re pulling over again. By far the most impressive tire change I’ve ever seen.

There’s a distinct difference between Vietnam and Cambodia when you cross the border. The poverty in Cambodia is heartbreaking, but it’s incredible to witness the kindness and sense of unity that you feel immediately. One man took about 30 minutes to remove, fix and replace our bus tire with about 10 other locals helping in any way they could, whether providing light or tools. Even Grandma came out to supervise and tend to the children running around the work area.

Once we were up and running again, we drove another hour or so before joining a fleet of shipping containers on a small ferry across the river. It was interesting having no idea what this journey would entail, but it definitely made what could have been a dreadful 6 hours pretty entertaining and eye opening. Welcome to Cambodia!!

Friends "Take Away"

It’s amazing how you could be in the most wonderful place in the whole wide world, but if you’re with the wrong people it could be a complete disaster. Traveling with someone is completely different than just being friends, and the people you meet on the road might not necessarily be people you would gravitate towards at home. People keep saying that the true strength test of a relationship or friendship is backpacking through Southeast Asia (or really anywhere) for a month.

My brother and I have found our groove. We know each others strengths and weaknesses, and when to back off and when to push each other. We’ve seen other travelling buddies who have not been as fortunate. People have their horror stories, and how they will NEVER travel with the other person again, or how they’ve gone days without speaking. It’s too bad, but I also get it. I have friends who I absolutely adore, but the idea of traveling with them in various capacities would be complete hell.

I love that when you meet a fellow traveler on the road the first topic of conversation is “how long are you traveling for?”, followed by “where else are you going?” and then “where are you from?” We’re traveling for 2 months, and that’s been on the short side in comparison to the majority of the people we’ve met, except Americans. This makes me sad… non-Americans are traveling for at least 2 months, Americans give you this sad look and say, “a couple weeks” and then roll their eyes and say “that’s all the time I could get off work”. My opinion on this topic is for another conversation because I could go on for days, but it’s a bummer meeting so many people around the world whose cultures encourage exploration and for us it’s “here’s your two weeks of vacation a year… good luck with that.” Not cool!

We’ve meet some truly incredible people from all backgrounds and with all kinds of reasons to find themselves traveling in Southeast Asia. We’ve learned so much from people we’ve spent a few days with in addition to just in passing. Traveling shouldn’t just be a bug, it’s a lifestyle that’s worth the investment.

Hanoi/Halong Bay, Vietnam: Castaway (November 2013)

You could easily spend a month touring just Vietnam, but since we only had about a week we wanted to utilize the time to our best ability. We booked a last minute flight up north to Hanoi. A friend recommended Hanoi Backpackers and their Castaways tour of Halong Bay. There are several ways to explore Halong Bay. 1. make your way to Halong and hire a tour from there, 2. book a cheap tour and be one with nature on a questionable boat, and 3. expensive booze cruise. Normally we’d opt for the first or second choice, but we heard RAVING reviews about the Castaways party tour so we figured we’d give it a shot and booze cruise our way through the bay.

The tour was… fine. Do I regret it, of course not… would I do it again, not so much. We met some amazing new travel friends on the tour and we made the trip our own. It was just a little too fratastic for me.

The bus ride to Halong Bay is about 4 hours from Hanoi. Most of the trip was spent chatting and sleeping like most bus journeys. Once we arrived, we divided up on to two big boats, which later were conjoined, allowing for us to jump back and forth. The first event was lunch and the “rules” of the boat/trip. Here was the first sign of feeling like I was at a frat house: the rules included no drinking with you right hand, unable to say the world 10 and some “copy/paste” game I never really understood. There may have been a couple other rules, but I honestly can’t remember them because they were just too lame.

After lunch we went kayaking, which was really fun. We went through caves and paddled around magnificent cliffs for about an hour. The sun began to set as we continued cruising around the bay. To give you a sense of the maturity level and disorganization of the trip, our first drinking game was “never have i ever”... with 40 people in a circle, which got pretty old pretty fast. A group of us who weren’t really feeling it went over to the other boat to relax and chat on the top deck. That night was spent dancing and socializing on the boat.  

The next day we made our way to Castaway Island, a private island with a bar and bungalows exclusively for our tour. Now things were starting to look up. We spent the day swimming and relaxing on the beach, with an option for rock climbing as well. After dinner the party really got started. Since the crew/guides seemed to lack the ability to organize an entertaining game, we decided to take matters into our own hands. A group of Dutch friends started playing a pong game that was a combination of beer pong and quarters. It caught on like wildfire. I don’t even know how many rounds and how may people participated in this fast paced game, but it was exactly what we needed.

One of my favorite things about Halong Bay was the phosphorus plankton in the sea. A night swim was in order. Seeing the bright glow around you in the water at night was absolutely incredible. The whole experience felt like Neverland, staying in beachfront bungalows tucked into palm trees, enjoying a carefree day with fellow travelers and being surrounded by Tinkerbell and her phosphorus fairy dust in the warm sea on a dark night.

Even though the Castaway tour had its flaws, overall it was a great couple days. The views are stunning, and luckily we were able to share the experience with an amazing group of new friends.

Saigon/HCMC, Vietnam: Halloween (October 31, 2013)

I didn’t realize Halloween was such an international holiday until experiencing Oct. 31st in Saigon. Celebrations began Halloween eve, the streets were crowded with people drinking and eating in tiny kid chairs that lined the streets. Watching the huge crowds form from our hotel room, we figured it was a good idea to get down on the street and claim our tiny chairs early. We found a perfect spot located right next to the best food cart we had seen thus far.

We enjoyed delicious freshly grilled chicken wings, octopus and beef skewers along with a few Tiger beers. The parade of costumes started to intensify so we decided to walk a bit before settling for the big show. We found an area that seemed to have too many tourists for our liking, but the seats it was prime location… luckily we ended up meeting 3 local guys and a family with the most adorable little girl. Our new friends definitely made our night.

The street was packed with costumes, kids throwing paint and motorbikes. It was interesting seeing the various costumes that were not overly traditional. Most people were just wearing masks or face paint. My favorite was a group of teenage boys dressed in homemade Avengers costumes!

It was a crazy holiday in the best way possible. I love celebrating festivals and holidays at home and in other countries. If you don’t have Halloween plans next year, I highly recommend checking out Saigon.

Saigon/HCMC, Vietnam: War Museum (November 2013)

When you tell someone you’re going to Vietnam, you get a certain reaction… something like “... oh, I hear it’s beautiful.” Yes, it is beautiful, but let’s focus on the initial pause. It’s no secret that there’s simply an awkwardness with visiting Vietnam. Not really sure what to expect, how the locals will react, do they treat Americans differently, is the war a taboo topic? The Vietnam War is a large part of our relatively current history. My parents’ generation was in the thick of it, so by default it’s a hot topic even still in our country.

We arrived in Ho Chi Minh City (or Saigon as the locals still call it) late into the evening on Oct. 30th. Saying that the streets were buzzing would be a serious understatement. So many motobikes and bright lights rushing around us. We finally found a decent hostel, lucking out with a cheap/clean room to ourselves on Pham Ngu Lao street, the main backpacker drag. Unbeknownst to us, the night before Halloween was almost as well celebrated as Halloween itself. The street was packed, we were exhausted and hungry. We found a cafe off the main road where we could sit and take a breather. Luckily we ended up sitting next to an ex-pat from Oregon who has lived in Saigon for about 6 years. He was a bit of a character, but also extremely helpful with not only answering our common questions, but also shedding light on the currently US/Vietnam relations. He reassured us that we’ll be welcomed in Vietnam as Americans, although it’s important to visit the War Museum to understand the Vietnamese perspective on what they refer to as the American War.

Now, on to the museum. I don’t have any pictures of the interior exhibits out of respect, and frankly the images were so brutal that keeping those memories only in my head is more than enough. Clearly the Vietnamese are welcoming to Americans today, but you get a “forgive but never forget” sense from the museum. The museum is anti-American and blatantly clear that the US had no place in the war, and their “aggressive war crimes” have not gone unnoticed. Whatever your political views regarding the Vietnam War and/or today, it’s important to see the other side. I’m really glad we took the time to go through the museum, as hard as it is to see both hatred towards your country and images of what your country put others through. Of course this goes both way. The US lost too many soldiers during the war which people all over the world didn’t support, but learning another perspective and seeing it in an overwhelming capacity is humbling. If you’d like to discuss my experience at the museum in more detail, please let me know… I don’t want to go into it too much on the blog.

Here are a few pictures from the museum, but again keeping it respectful to both sides…

Bali, Indonesia: Surfs Up (October 2013)

Our last full day in Bali was very bittersweet. We spent the morning learning how to paddle-surf (surfing on a standup paddleboards), and it was SO MUCH FUN!! I never got into surfing while living in LA, mainly because the water in Venice isn’t overly inviting. I wish I would have though because I really enjoyed the challenge of catching the wave along with the somewhat brutal beating while trying to make my way back out past the whitewash.

That evening we had a girls night out, which in Bali means mediocre cocktails and Balinese cover bands at an open air bar. It was the perfect way to wrap up and let loose a bit. I would like to thank Taylor and Amy at Paddleboard Bliss for a wonderful retreat. We had a great group and truly a blissful week. Can’t wait for the next one!

Bali, Indonesia: Ubud Zen (October 2013)

In spite of the masses of tourists and motorbikes, Bali is a very “zen” place. The people are calm, all smiles and friendly, the sunsets are picture perfect and the turquoise water is hypnotizing. Ubud is a quiet town in the northern part of the islands. It is known for it’s peaceful vibes, healthy food and Yoga Barn. This massive open-air yoga studio is a retreat in itself.

We ate at their raw/vegan cafe before our sound healing class. I’ve never experienced sound healing before, but I’ve been into trying different types of yoga so figured it was worth checking out. It as definitely different… We started the class with a warm up which consisted of us holding hands in a circle while chanting and quickly shuffling to the right. I’m not sure I really got much out of it because I wasn’t really sure what we were chanting and how to stay focused during such an unusual ritual, but I got through it and next we lied down for the healing portion.

The next hour was spent comfortably on the floor tampering with the line between awake and asleep. Our teacher played a large variety of percussion, wind and string instruments creating an environment that allows you to enter a zen state. After the healing, I felt… weird. Normally I feel refreshed and calm after a mediation/yoga session, but I was simply exhausted after the sound healing. I need to do more research and see if this is normal, but honestly it wasn’t my favorite feeling. I’m really glad that I gave the healing class a try, but I don’t think I’m going to be rushing back for another session.

We spent the rest of our time in Ubud walking around the town, shopping, having tea and more shopping. I really enjoyed the slightly cooler air and calm atmosphere Ubud has going on. If (when) I’m back in Bali, I’d love to spend a few more days there and take different classes at Yoga Barn.

Before we made our way back to Sanur, we had dinner at Sari Organik, which is situated about a 15 minute walk through rice paddies. The food was tasty, but the setting sun over the swampy green fields was an absolutely perfect way to complete the day in the Ubud oasis.

Bali, Indonesia: Setting Sail (October 2013)

Sometimes the most memorable experiences are those that are unexpected. We started the morning with a yoga class at Power of Now Oasis, an open air loft studio fully equip with mats, large fans, juice bar and a sacred cow. After class the owner of the studio suggested we join him on his sailboat for the afternoon. Not much else was planned for the day so we decided to take him up on his offer, and boy are we glad we did. We took a dingy out to the yacht anchored in bay. It was a beautiful boat. Chris, the Aussie captain, bought the boat in Puerto Rico and spent about 1.5 years sailing it to Bali.

Sunning on the deck, it took us a couple hours (or something like that, honestly I had no track of the time) to get to another area of Bali where Chris was meeting up with a friend. Once we arrived to the private(ish) beach, we spent a bit of time jumping off the boat and swimming around in the sea before it was time to taxi to the shore for lunch at the local hotel. The options were to swim in or take the dingy, of course I picked to swim… and it felt great although it was quite a battle with the current.

After lunch we made our way back to the boat, and sailed through the sunset back to Sanur.

That boat was a wild one and her captain wasn’t much different. Chris was a very generous host, and not only did he make our afternoon, but that day became the highlight of our Bali retreat.

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Bali, Indonesia: Bintang Time (October 2013)

Bintang time? Yes please. Bintang is the local beer of Indonesia, and luckily it is plentiful and delicious. The other thing that’s plentiful is Bintang apparel. Everyone is decked out in Bintang tanks, hats, sunglasses, shorts etc. You also can’t stop saying “Bintang”...

I had a bit of free time one afternoon so I went over to Kuta/Seminyak to visit Brian for a beach day. This area is much more touristy than Sanur where our retreat was taking place, and oddly a nice change. The beach was filled with lounge chairs and umbrellas for cheap hire, and of course flowing Bintangs. We spent the day through the sunset under an umbrella, sipping on Bintangs and watching the surfers.

Sunset surfing at Seminyak Beach

After the sun disappeared, the streets of Kuta came alive. The clubs were bumping and motorbikes flooded the streets. The nightlife wasn’t for us that night, so I grabbed a taxi back to quiet Sanur. I don’t think I’d enjoy staying right in Kuta, but it’s definitely the main source of nighttime entertainment for the island. The beach in Seminyak was nicer than I expected, which was a fun place to watch the surfers and play in the waves. Oh yeah, and it was nice to see Brian. He met a bunch of people at his hostel and ended up having a great time in Bali, enjoying new company and plenty of Bintangs.

bintang, bintang, bintang… ok i’m done.

Bali, Indonesia: Tanah Lot Temple (October 2013)

Tanah Lot Temple is a very special place of worship. The temple is located on what seems to be a small island at high tide. During low tide, both tourists and locals can walk out to the rock formation and receive a blessing. Tourists can’t go into the temple, but even being able to walk across the puddled ground helps to understand the uniqueness to this holy place. There isn’t really much else to say about the temple, but here are some pictures that hopefully do the beauty a little justice:

Bali, Indonesia: Retreat SUP Bliss (October 2013)

At the beginning of every yoga class, it’s recommended that you set an intention. This intention can be what you want to get out of the time in the class, out of the day, or even a greater goal. I’ve been doing moderate yoga for about 7 years and I never really took this ritual seriously until this last year. Clearly I’ve been doing a lot of thinking over the last year, which includes my current life changes, but I’ve also been trying to focus on both the big picture and the current moment… setting intentions. I now use the first 2 minutes of each yoga class to focus on one thing in that class such as feeling stronger in a challenging position, taking a pose to a more advance level or even making an extra effort to keep my mind on the mat instead of wandering off while trying to balance on one leg with my arm going some other way. Long story short, this works and I think it’s important to take a moment to focus on your immediate mental and physical state for even just 30 minutes a couple times a week in addition to your life direction.

I’ve never attended a retreat before, but I always imagined them being a mix of vacation and summer camp. The week in Bali was spent at a paddleboard and yoga retreat hosted by Paddleboard Bliss. I’ve been a big fan of Bliss since I started renting paddleboards from them a year or so ago, so when I saw they were doing a retreat in Bali smack in the middle of my SE Asia adventure it was too meant to be to pass up.

I wasn’t really sure what to expect since it was the first time Bliss had put on a retreat in Bali, but it turned out to be the best way to approach the week. Vacation/summer camp ended up being a pretty accurate description in the best way possible. It was a great group and both the planned and spontaneous activities all worked out to be an appropriately blissful week.

At the beginning of each yoga session during the week I continued to set my immediate intention, but I also wanted to set one for the week. My brother and I had been doing a lot of moving around and planning for the few weeks leading up, and even though we had a schedule in Bali, I wanted to focus on stillness. Spending the week in a calm state whether it was during my down time, while doing yoga on a floating paddleboard or spending time in a taxi on a curvy road. Even with a lot of physical movement, finding stillness in some way can completely change your state of being.

I feel like I did a pretty good job accomplishing my intention. Even during the more physical activities such as paddleboard surfing, I found myself catching waves (or even just feeling stable while standing) when I would still my mind and focus on the immediate moment. It turned out to be a great week, and I feel very fortunate to have shared the Bali bliss with such a wonderful group of people I now call friends.