Koh Lanta, Thailand: Neverland (November 2013)

White sand beaches stretching for miles, cruising around island roads on a motorbike and a cold local beer on the beach, this is how most people imagine southern Thailand, and it’s spot on. After an eventful experience getting out of Bangkok with the mobs of protesters, we arrived on Koh Lanta a little later than expected, but not too late for our first Thai beach sunset.

We stayed at Twin Bay Resort located on the northern part of Long Beach. It was nice being on the main beach, but not in the thick of it, infinity pool and clean, air-conditioned bungalows. Koh Lanta is very low-key, no part of the island is hectic and over crowded. We had heard it was a good place for couples, which I do agree with, but it’s also a good place if you just want a break, a little bit of peace and quiet. Our friend who met up with us in Bangkok only had a week of vacation in Thailand so we wanted to make it the most well rounded experience we could. We got the big city out of the way, so next stop was the chill beach.

After a day of lounging, we decided to rent motorbikes in order to see the rest of the island. Our first stop was lunch. The town area is very small, not many shops, but plenty of waterfront restaurants to choose from. We grabbed a leisurely delicious seafood lunch with a spectacular view, then hit the open road.

Riding motorbikes around Pai was very different than Koh Lanta. The island roads were flat, wide and far less busy than up north. One of the very helpful staff members at our hotel told us about waterfalls on the southern part of the island. I’m not sure if we found the ones he was referring too, but after a bit of a hike, we did find some water falling down a cliff. We hadn’t done much hiking until now, and of course we were well prepared in our flipflops! It was a bit rough in patches, but overall a fun experience and no toes were lost in the process of exploring caves, trekking through creeks and showering in the falls.

I don’t know what it is about that island, but it made me feel young and free. The temperature and picturesque views were perfect, with the motorbikes being our only mode of transportation. It was rebellious and yet oddly safe at the same time, safe in the sense of confidence, feeling as if you could spend the rest of your life only knowing those couple roads.  As much as I love knowing that feeling will always exist on Koh Lanta, it was time to move on. We spent the rest of our time on the island motorbiking, beaching and cocktailing, but we were in the mood for a little more of an active social scene. Next stop: Koh Phi Phi!!

Bangkok, Thailand: Bangkok Has Them Now (November 2013)

This city is dirty, crowded, touristy and a place you don’t want to look behind the curtain. And yet, I didn’t hate it. Before we arrived we had heard only bad things about Bangkok. I think my expectations were so low and scary that I was pleasantly surprised how much I liked it, not saying I’d want to live there, but it was much more bearable than I expected. My brother and I had familiar company for that week of our trip with my college roommate meeting up with us for a few play days in Bangkok then heading down to the southern beaches.

We started with touring Wat Pho, one of the largest and oldest temple complexes in Bangkok and home to the Temple of Reclining Buddha. This Grand Palace is located in the old part of the city, and consists of two large gated complexes and is regularly packed with monks and tourists. Also a fun fact, Wat Pho is the birthplace of the first traditional Thai massage school. We had seen our fair share of temples at this point, but it was important to tour this magnificent landmark.

Before we went up to Northern Thailand we had a day in Bangkok waiting for our night bus. We noticed crowds of political demonstrations such as speeches and festive looking events, and we thought nothing of it. Possibly a national holiday of sorts. Upon our return to Bangkok we found out the demonstrations has significantly escalated causing streets to shut down due to the antigovernment mobs. The protests had not become violent yet, but the crowds made it very difficult to get around the city, even causing us to miss our flight out the next day. (http://world.time.com/2014/01/21/bangkok-shutdown-explained/)

That night we hit the town. We decided to start our evening with a sky high cocktail at Sky Bar. With their recent claim to fame being the filming location for The Hangover II, the bar was crowded with high rollers. We looked slightly out of place, but still enjoyed a fancy drink overlooking the city.

I think we went to another part of town, and maybe a club, might have hung out with a monkey and a Russian but there’s no way to know for sure… Bangkok has them now.

Pai, Thailand: Biker Gang (November 2013)

We finally got bikes!!! It was time to hit the open road! There are several natural attractions around the town of Pai, including waterfalls, hot springs and hikes. Since we only had our bikes for a day we had to prioritize our activities, although just riding around the windy, mountainous roads on a motorbike was an adventure in itself. I’ll fully admit I was nervous/terrified at first, but was surprised how quickly the nerves calmed and the adrenaline kicked in.

Our first stop was the hot springs. After parking the bikes, we walked back into the woods to find 5 pools of water flowing into one another, and several tourists enjoying the natural jacuzzis. We took a dip, ran into our new Canadian and German friends then walked back a little further into the woods to find steaming hot pools of water. These 80 degree puddles smelled of sulfur and were too toasty to swim in, but we did enjoy the warning sign “No Boil Egg” which apparently is an issue?

With our muscles relaxed after a nice hot swim, we got back on the bikes to cruise over to a hiking area. I was expecting a path through the trees leading up one of the various mountainsides. Not exactly what we found. Instead we walked up a long flight of stairs to find a plateau of narrow walkways on top of a hill. And of course there are no rails or barriers between you and the rocky cliff as you walk along the narrow paths. It was a bit of a rush, and also made for some fun photo ops.

Some of life’s best experiences are those unexpected. It never crossed my mind that I’d love a place without a beach, but Northern Thailand is absolutely stunning and attracts amazing tourists and locals alike. There’s an indescribably majestic quality to the town, which explains the hippie invasion that seems to fuel the perfect escape that is Pai, Thailand.

Pai, Thailand: Mountain Escape (November 2013)

After a trip like this, the first question asked is “what was your favorite place,” an impossible question to answer. Although when I start to really think about it, I realized that the most unexpected place that I loved was Northern Thailand, in particular the small hippie town of Pai. We took a bus from Chiang Mai about 3 hours north near the Burma border. We had heard that the town was tiny, but worth the trip up, and that’s exactly what it was. The road north is along a very windy road weaving through the mountains. It was absolutely beautiful.

We checked into the BEST guesthouse/hostel in Pai, Darling View Point Resort. It’s located slightly outside of town, across an Indiana Jones bridge, along a dirt road and up a slight hill, providing their guests with treehouse like bungalows, a magnificent mountainous view and an inviting nightly bonfire. We also lucked out meeting an amazing group of fellow travelers hailing from Canada, Germany, the UK and even back home. It felt as if we were at camp, checking in with each other to see if anyone was up for wandering into town for a meal or take an adventure via motorbike to a local natural attraction. Once again we had introduced ourselves to people who we can now call new travel friends, and people we even ran into later on in Bangkok. Small world encounters will never get old.

One thing we had heard about Pai is that it’s a great place to learn how to ride a motorbike. Before Pai, we had been in large cities and simply the idea of riding a motorbike solo was terrifying. So this was it, time to face fears and get on those scooters!! Yet one thing we didn’t hear about Pai was how hard it was to actually get a scooter. Tourists are up early, making their way into town to snatch up the limited amount of bikes. Our first day trying to get a bike was very frustrating. The lines were insane and our patience were surely being tested. We decided to call it quits for the day and try again early the next morning, but in the meantime we had half of a hot and humid day ahead of us. Anytime we found ourselves with some downtime and couldn’t decide what we should do, we resorted to “what would we do if we were at home in this situation,” and the answer was… find a swimming pool.

My brother had read about a local public swimming pool just outside of town, and after about a mile or so walk we found Fluid. It was perfect. The grassy pool deck was filled with backpackers lounging around, drinking cocktails, eating your standard pool snackage and dipping into the refreshing semi-chlorinated water (can’t win them all). Maybe we wont discuss whether or not the facility was up to code, but it was exactly what we were looking for. We spent the afternoon relaxing around this hidden gem in our new favorite mountain escape.

Each evening we walked around the nightly market, enjoying the vibrant energy and delicious street food this small hippie town has to offer. I could have spent at least a week just in Pai, lounging around the pool, exploring the beautiful natural sights and eating some of the best barbequed ribs I’ve ever had in my life from my favorite street market in Thailand. My favorite place on the trip is an impossible question to answer, but Pai will always hold a special place.

Chiang Mai, Thailand: Baan Thai Cookery School (November 2013)

One of the first questions asked when you return home after traveling abroad is, “how was the food?” We all have to eat no matter our ethnicity, religion and income. Our plan on this trip was not to have much of a plan and just see what strikes our fancy as we travel from place to place. There were a few things though that I had on my to-do list that included diving the Great Barrier Reef, visiting a beach town in Cambodia, experience a lantern festival and learn how to cook. Looking back I wish I would have done a cooking class in each country, but that can be another trip. If you’re looking to travel domestically or internationally, I highly recommend taking a cooking course where you learn to prepare indigenous food. It’s definitely something I will add to future travel itineraries.

The Baan Thai Cookery School in Chiang Mai offers one of the best cooking courses in the area, and is recommended by Lonely Planet and TripAdvisor (travel bibles). We arrived at the school around 10am, ready and hungry! The first task of the class was to pick our menu consisting of five dishes. Then our group strolled over to the local market to pick out our ingredients. We had spent a lot of time around various markets as we traveled, but this market was fresh and plentiful. As we walked around, we learned about different spices and herbs used with Thai cooking as we collected our ingredients.

We returned to the kitchen ready to cook with baskets filled with fresh produce. The best part of this school is the prep work, or should I say lack thereof. Everything was pre-cut and proportioned making this class fun and easy for chefs of all levels. We would make a dish, sit with our group to enjoy and then divide up again for the next dish. It was a great way to learn to cook and appreciate Thai cuisine.

After preparing and consuming bowls of homemade pad thai, curries, soups and dessert we were stuffed. It was time for a long walk and a longer nap. The class was wonderful, and I can't emphasize enough the importance of taking the time to learn about local foods along your travels, whether preparing or just eating. Take a step out of your culinary comfort zone. Even if you’re the type of person who burns cornflakes, try to take on a wok or taste a dish that’s new to you. If all else fails, you can always grab a slice of pizza pretty much anywhere in the world.

Chiang Mai, Thailand: Let There Be Light (November 2013)

There are specific events that will never escape your memory. Although there were several unforgettable moments on this trip, I will never forget the sights, sounds and feeling of the Yi Peng festival. Thousands of floating lanterns are launched into the sky all at once in a field near the University. The process to get to and from the festival was hellish, but once you push through the crowds and feel the energy around you, it will send chills up your spine. There are no words to explain the overwhelming peaceful feeling you experience while watching the floating lights drift with the wind, forming a lit path in the sky.

The most elaborate Yi Peng celebration is held in Chiang Mai, where it is celebrated at the same time as Loi Krathong (“Floating Crowns”) consisting of crown shaped banana leaf boats containing candles floating down the river around Chiang Mai. Everywhere you looked there were twinkling lights, floating in the water and in the air at the same time.

We crossed paths with a girl we met in Vietnam who had spent time in Chiang Mai before, so she was extremely helpful regarding details for attending the massive festival. The temples held ceremonies and lanterns were drifting through the dark night throughout the whole week, but the main event was absolutely breathtaking. I’d like to thank our new friend Cyndi for her generosity to allowing us to experience a bucket list and once in a lifetime event.

Chiang Mai, Thailand: Temples and Tigers and Festivals, Oh My! (November 2013)

I’m a beach person, no shocker there. I was excited to go up to Northern Thailand, but felt as if I was only going to check it off the list of places I’m suppose to visit. To my surprise, I loved it. I actually think it was my favorite part of our trip. It’s hard to pick a favorite place because they’re all very different and I enjoyed various experiences in each location, but Chiang Mai and Pai were the highlights of our trip for me. We arrived in Chiang Mai after an overnight bus trip from Bangkok. I was surprised how well I slept on the bus, and loved discovering the less expensive and time saving alternative to flying.

Arriving bright and early, we took a taxi to our hostel. Long story short, the hostel was overbooked and we were sent to a brand new hotel down the street. A little sketched out, we checked into The Elephant Hotel. We were literally the first people to stay in the hotel. We had our own room with a bathroom, and the owners were very accommodating. They don’t have a website yet, but I recommend staying at this hotel if you find yourself in Chiang Mai. 

 

We spent the first day strolling around the Old Town part of the city, visiting one temple after the next. After being crammed on a bus all night then doing a substantial amount of walking, we decided to treat ourselves to a traditional Thai massage, which felt great after the bending, pulling and popping. At this point we were stretched out, relaxed and hungry. Wandering around a bit more, we came across a restaurant that was a little run down but packed with locals, which to us meant it was where we were going to find our next meal. And then it happened… our first taste of Kao Soi. It was glorious. This curry noodle soup with your choice of protein became my favorite Thai dish and one of the best meals we had on the trip!

Chiang Mai is a clean, touristy city, but most of the the attractions are about an hour outside. We had many options such as ziplining, spending the night in a treehouse, elephant sanctuaries and playing with tigers. We chose the big cats. The Tiger Kingdom in Chiang Mai is where all your tiger dreams come true. You can choose to spend time in the cages with small, medium or large tigers… taking pictures, petting them, hoping they don’t eat you. I’m not going to partake in the debate of whether or not the tigers are drugged and abused, that can be for you ponder. 

Our last night in Chiang Mai was spent walking around yet another market. The Sunday Market is quite spectacular. Every street was packed with food, art, clothing and nicknack vendors. It was the largest weekly market that we came across. The street food was delicious, and we bought a few pieces of festive art as reminders of our time in the lovely Northern Thailand city.

Siem Reap, Cambodia: Angkor Wat (November 2013)

“It is a work of power, unity and style.” I normally don’t reward wikipedia with accuracy points, but this quote on the Angkor Wat page perfectly defines the ancient Buddhist temple complex. Angkor Wat, meaning “Temple City” in Khmer, is the largest religious monument in the world. It was build in the 12th century, but doesn’t look a day over 15th century (bad joke).

Although I’m grateful for the experience to tour the temples, we did it all wrong. Yes, we made it to sunrise, but we weren’t prepared for the full day ahead of us. I’ll admit, again, that I failed on my research for this portion of the trip. I don’t know if I was tired or thought the temple would be self explanatory, but either way I could easily use another day or two exploring the massive complex. With that being said, I still appreciated the unique architecture, wandering monks and rich history Angkor Wat has to offer.

We arrived at 5am for sunrise, taking pictures every 30 seconds to try to capture the perfect progression of the fiery light creeping behind the central temple. Once the sun appeared full above the temple’s peak, we toured the inside of the rock structure. I felt like I was making my way through the Legends of the Hidden Temple set, hoping one of the stone carved faces doesn't gobble me up. A monk was seated in one of the open areas. He offered a red braided bracelet to those who desired a blessing. My brother and I both knelt down next to him and received the good words.

   

   

The colors don't seem very diverse from a distance, and of course the pictures don't do it justice, but the shades of grey and greens that cover the temples are magnificently beautiful.  I wanted to take a picture of every stone, each one looking vastly different from the next when up close.  

Moving on to the other temples in the complex, our tuk tuk driver cruised through the crowded streets. It really is like a city, traffic and all. We visited various sites, including the filming location for Lara Croft: Tomb Raider. Underestimating the energy we needed for the day, we were pooped by lunch time and decided to head back to Siem Reap. Now I understand why they offer a multi-day pass. I would love to visit Cambodia again, spend time at the beaches and revisit Angkor Wat to give it the proper time and energy the ancient Temple City deserves.

Siem Reap, Cambodia: Where Everyone Knows Your Name (November 2013)

We spent a large portion of our trip touring cities... some dirty, some cleaner than expected, some saturated with tourists, others only occupied by locals. Although we weren’t sure what to expect when we arrived at our next destination, one thing we could always count on was a night market. Siem Reap was no different, and has what we considered the best night market in all the land.

After dropping our bags off at The Yellow Hostel, a quaint, family run establishment catering to both backpackers and the average traveler, we walked about a mile to the downtown area. Siem Reap is the most touristy city in Cambodia due to the availability of commercial hotels, accessibility and of course the ancient Angkor Wat temple complex. We hadn’t spent a lot of time around tourists in Cambodia, so we were a bit surprised to see so many visitors. The city is small but vibrant and full of life. Pub Street was commonly recommended to us as the hot bar scene, so we decided to check it out. As we wandered over we passed the Night Market, filled with merchants and shoppers, bartering for common souvenirs and unique treasures alike.

We finally made our way through the maze like market and over to Pub Street. Various music was pumping into the street. Thanks to the colorful and clever name, Angkor What was our first pick for the night. As much as I love to travel, I love the feeling of being at home, which I usually define by the comfort of a neighborhood, local coffee shop and running into good friends. After this trip, I’ve come to realize that you can have the comforts of home anywhere in the world. Mid-conversation with a lovely German couple, we look up and see the group of Brazilian guys we met in Halong Bay, Vietnam! We had no clue they were going to Cambodia next! It was the first time, and not the last, that we ran into new friends along our travels. Again, moments like this that you know you’re in the right place.

It was great catching up with them, and we took their advice to be sure to experience Angkor Wat at sunrise. At this point it was getting late and although the bars were still bumping, we said goodbye to our Brazilian friends and headed back to the hotel. We spent a couple days in Siem Reap, touring Angkor Wat and shopping at the markets… oh and overcoming my fear of pedicures by jumping feet first into a bath of skin eating fish. I’ll admit I was freaking out at first, it felt worse than the regular pedicure I despise so much, but after a bit of time I overcame my urge to scream and run away. I don’t think I’ll be jumping back in anytime soon, but I’m proud of myself for lasting about 15 minutes.